The last push to (almost) Ushuaia

As promised, we saw much sea life as we traveled the south coast of Argentina. One of the larger specimens at Mar del Plata gets much respect from Peter as he shows his fangs.



As we sailed south, seals and dolphins kept us company



along with lots of seabirds.





We enjoyed a beautiful day (despite motoring) as we passed a scenic lighthouse south of Puerto Deseado in light winds.





As we continued on the days were marked by light winds and of course - a gale. All from the south. The birds loved the windy weather



and the waves built up a bit.



Most of our challenges on this trip were focused around dishwashing. With no drain on the galley sink (due to the broken seacock) we were using the head sink for dishes. The fluorescent light in the head decided this was a good time for the ballast to die so we had no light. Then about a day after we left Puerto Deseado a fresh water connection came loose while motoring and we dumped our full water tanks – all 90 gallons – into the bilge. Of course, this happened in the middle of the night so our thinking wasn't very clear when we closed the valves to isolate the leak - wherever it was. We started the water maker and proceeded to make another 30 gallons of water and dump that in the bilge too! With daybreak, our mistake became obvious. Luckily we carry several large containers of water and were able to use our bottled water while we found and reconnected the loose fitting and made water – again.

We hauled up the storm jib for one overnight blow and then fired up the engine as the wind died and motored on. With all that motoring we needed to refuel from jerry jugs, so we took advantage of the calm.

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As we progressed into higher latitudes the days got longer but the weather got colder. During the cold front and gale that passed the temperature outside dropped to 37°F making watches on deck painful with the wind chill. Those flying bird photos were taken with frozen fingers.



Just as we arrived at the notorious Estrecho de le Maire the barometer bottomed out and the light wind we had enjoyed built to a 20 knot headwind. We had heard about 30 foot standing waves that can occur in this area when wind opposes tide so we tried the recommended tactic entering the pass with wind and tide together, even though it was unfavorable. Unfortunately going against wind and tide we were unable to make progress. So we waited for the tide to change and then beat into the wind for hours to get to Bahia Buen Suceso. Not our normal style, and not elegant but the other option of waiting for fair wind at Isla de los Estados would have delayed us too long.



We anchored in Bahia Buen Suceso and woke to snow on the deck and strong winds. The windlass refused to work because the lubricant that has worked so well in the tropics had thickened in the chill.



After a second night at anchor rolling in the now large SE swell watching the barometer rise we decided it was time to go. Our last weather information was four days old but we knew that as the forecast low went by the wind should come around from a more favorable direction. When the baro reached 1005 we hauled anchor and rounded Buen Suceso. This was another motorboat trip and as we crawled along at top RPM's, but only making 2 knots we were anxious about our fuel reserves and wishing we had brought even more fuel!



The barometer topped out and the wind began to ease as we entered the Beagle Channel. At midnight, with just 25 miles to go, we were both in the cockpit for watch change when the engine made a noise. Peter opened the hatch and black smoke billowed out. We immediately killed the engine and began inspecting for fire. The prospect of abandoning a boat on fire in these icy waters had two very motivated people working quickly to find the source. We were relieved to find that the boat and engine were not on fire. Further examination revealed that we had blown a hole in our exhaust mixing elbow and were shooting raw exhaust fumes into the cabin. Not pleasant, but a relief to find that the boat was uncompromised. The current in this area has an onshore set and we were just a half mile from shore and kelp. We rolled out the jib, hoisted the main and started to sail against the wind and current toward our destination.

Twelve hours and 27 tacks later we arrived at Puerto Harberton. This was one of very few possible anchorages after Buen Suceso and the first port with road access where we could get a ride to town to get a new part made and pick up Lisa when she arrived. We made our arrival deadline (sort of) with just two days to spare and were relieved to know we'd be able to make our appointment at the airport.

Calms and a Gale

Life in San Fernando was wonderful and easy, but it was not easy to leave. We were mindful that our date to meet our daughter Lisa in Ushuaia, a thousand sea miles to the south, was looming ever closer. But seemed that even the water level in the river conspired to keep us at San Fernando. The water level fell for days before our planned departure date. The weather forecast was for light winds and no rain inland (conditions that keep the river low) and we knew if we didn't leave very soon we'd be prisoners for a while, maybe a long while. At the Prefectura office, we cleared out of San Fernando with hopes that we could leave on the mid-day high tide, but it was not to be. Back at the boat there was not sufficient water - Marcy's keel was firmly on the bottom. Our last hope was the 3AM high tide that night. With last minute jobs to do and a quick dash into town for dinner we were exhausted as we fell into our bunk. To our happy surprise at 3AM the water was just high enough to get out. We crept out of the marina in the dark with perfectly calm water. Following our depth sounder and radar to get out of the delta we only had a couple of mis-steps. We accidently steered into the reeds once, and another bump on a bend found us running from side to side, trying to roll the boat free, as the boat idled in reverse. It all worked out, and as the sun came up the light on the river was softened by light fog. What a perfectly gorgeous morning it was!



At first, it was an uneventful trip toward Mar del Plata. There wasn't much wind so we motored a lot. The VHF radio got a lot of use as we had to check in regularly with the Prefectura, giving our position and particulars every 4 hours or so. About forty miles from Mar del Plata, in very light wind, we saw an enormous and ominous cigar cloud on the horizon, complete with flickering lightening. Definitely a weather event!



We had the presence of mind to prepare for high wind quickly, and got the storm jib hanked on and raised just before the wind picked up.



After spending 12 hours hove to, listening to the wind whistling in the rigging, we were able resume sailing and duck in to Mar del Plata.

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Mar del Plata was a good stop for refueling, re-provisioning with fresh veggies, and showering - then we were on our way again. And we were able to celebrate our wedding anniversary on land with a nice restaurant meal instead of top ramen gulped down in a seaway.



We departed just after a blow from the north. We had hoped to catch some of that favorable wind but needed one more day to get organized. As we left in the dying northerly, the large swell it had produced was rolling in through the entrance which made for an exciting departure. As soon as we left the harbour the wind came around 180 degrees, sadly for us, and we had to motor into a light southerly wind. Motoring in calm and sailing in gale winds with just the storm jib was the story for the next few days. The wind was an all or nothing on this trip. We saw lots of fishing boats the first two days out. During one of Ginger's watches, a trawler passed close by and the captain no doubt spotted her alone on deck, and called her on VHF for a nice chat. Ginger was invited to bring Marcy to Puerto Madryn..... After the chat there was a moment of silence on the radio, then it came alive with every unseen fishing boat in radio range weighing in on the likelyhood that this captain would find a woman to talk with at sea. "Besos a todos," kisses to all, said one commenter.

We had lots of bird visitors while we motored on, sailed on, and motored on some more.

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As always, some items of Marcy's equipment fared better than other items. The seacock to the galley sink broke during this passage. Fortunately for safety's sake it broke in the closed position but it made washing the dishes very difficult. But the star of the trip was our new heater, lighted as we left Mar del Plata and going ever since.

With the wind dying again and the anticipation of more motoring to come we decided a stop at Puerto Deseado to refuel was in order. We arrived in the early morning with the fog and were soon invited to tie up to the pilot boat Yamana.

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Since we were stopping just for fuel, we couldn't think of a better situation. Not only did Enrique, the pilot boat skipper on duty , help with the refueling but the Director of the Port actually drove us to the gas station for our second load and arranged for a port truck to take us back. They are a very friendly and helpful group.

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We found time for not one but two (!!) safety inspections by the Prefectura – one on arrival and one before our departure was allowed,



and were able to enjoy the views of this beautiful area. The stark and treeless but very beautiful landscape reminded us of Eastern Washington.

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After a brief stop, only two nights, we set out again to make our appointment to meet our daughter in Ushuaia.